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In this wild and fantastical world, from the backdrops to the clothing, every detail tells Bella's tale of self-discovery and newfound empowerment. The dreamlike atmosphere adds an extra layer of magic to the narrative, giving us the space to dive deep into themes like identity, agency, and societal expectations. As Emma Stone's character grows from innocence to freedom, her wardrobe undergoes its own journey, morphing with each step of her evolution.
Kanye West Announces 'Yeezy Porn' Amid Reports of Adult Film Company
It also matures right along with her as she discovers the joys of sex — or "furious jumping" as she comes to call it. Innoative classes, networking with a who’s who of costume professionals and a prime location in Westwood with the film industry at its back door makes UCLA School of Theater, Film and Television a magnet. TUITION MFA tuition-free upon acceptance, thanks to David Geffen’s $150 million donation to the school in 2021, said to be the largest gift of its kind in the history of American theater. I’m very passionate about historical clothes—and I really do love throwing them on their head a bit.
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Costume Designer Holly Waddington on Costuming Yorgos Lanthimos’ Poor Things - Coveteur
Costume Designer Holly Waddington on Costuming Yorgos Lanthimos’ Poor Things.
Posted: Thu, 18 Jan 2024 08:00:00 GMT [source]
Yet as we see throughout the film, while the patriarchal society expects Bella to look a certain way, a “kind of discordance is expressed through how she's speaking and the things she's saying.” A completely original, creative book behind a standard cover. Then, Max McCandles needed to look a bit impoverished, and a little bit ill-fitting, the clothes needed to reveal him as being a bit lacking in confidence, with little sexual agency. Nothing like the wealthy, confident students that he's in medical school with. So, the fabrics were quite cheap and poor-looking, and the cuts that we went for were quite ill-fitting.
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First-year students begin with technical skills and costume history, followed by a second year of analytical thinking and collaborations with fellow students and directors, while students in the final year create costumes for a professional production. (Last year’s Tony awards featured design nominations for 15 alumni and faculty members). New courses include a class on working in the film and television industry with a focus on collaborative SyncOnSet software (essential for budgeting, script breakdowns, reports, and digital continuity books). It’s unusual when you do these period costumes, because normally your leading actor isn’t flailing around [in a period piece]. These clothes are not designed to lift your arm above your head—they’re almost like an extension of the corset, keeping the body in a particular way.
The film was released theatrically on Friday and Waddington’s artful costumes from the film are currently being exhibited at ASU FIDM in Los Angeles. “Poor Things,” the latest dark comedy from Greek director Yorgos Lanthimos, emerged from the Venice International Film Festival earlier this fall with the festival’s top award — and as an early awards season front-runner. Included in the buzz is the film’s costume designer Holly Waddington, who was tasked with outfitting the gorgeously wacky onscreen world. It started with deciding who is dressing her. So in my mind it was [housemaid] Mrs. Prim (Vicki Pepperdine).
Holly Waddington Wins Best Costume Design Oscar for ‘Poor Things’ With an Auspicious Introduction by John Cena
I was quite interested in that quality, finding its way somewhere into these clothes, and particularly the wardrobe of Bella. I'm a bit of an image hoarder, so I had images from a very wide range of periods. Periods in the history of dress, and art movements, had lots of images of organic textures, sea creatures, organic textures that are kind of frilly and sort of alive and light, and that I felt could somehow replace Victorian decoration.
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I designed the costumes for the pilot episodes and had a great time with Tony—we got on very well, loved working with him and loved his work. He made the introduction to Yorgos, so I got to have an interview with him, and it went from there. My first thought after watching Poor Things was, “I am going to be Lisbon Bella for Halloween.” Of course, I had other thoughts about the movie, but I was obsessed with the costumes! There was something modest, yet sexy about the nearly translucent fabrics, yet also silly with the humongous puffed sleeves. My advice would be just to be lapping it all up, whether it's learning how to sew and make, and dye, looking at art history, watching films, just all of it. It’s interesting because other actors really need to have tried something on, walked in it, felt it, so that was interesting… She’s a real firecracker of a person – fast, quick, and just gets everything.
“So the looks are all over the place.” As Bella matures, her outfits begin to better match the conventions of her surroundings. We had four cutters, lots of makers, one dyer working with me all the time, dyeing everything. Crowd costume people doing things and on-set people.
Describing “Poor Things” as a “dream project,” Waddington relished the opportunity to create a sartorial world that wasn’t firmly rooted in any one time period. “I had this sense that it shouldn’t be obviously sci-fi, and it shouldn’t be obviously period drama,” says Waddington, noting that she ended up grounding the sartorial story in Victorian-era silhouettes, without being confined to that fashion era. This blue [in the beginning] isn't an easy blue, it's very rich. The fabric was beautiful and already blue but not intense enough, so we overdyed it and overdyed it. I worked very closely with a dyer and she did about 20 different samples of how she could push this blue and identified this particular shade. We're very saturated with images of sexy underwear and pornography and sex work.
I was coming up with references of things that were sort of fleshy and skin tones and quite like the body colors. I wanted Emma to just keep going back to the fact that she was a creation. We did have her start off in longer knickers in the beginning, like a 1930s knicker. And on the first day of shooting, I realized she needed really short bloomers, to show more of her body, to reveal all of what she was doing with her body. Whenever sleeves have been big for women—the Elizabethan period, the 1940s, the 1980s—women have generally been in a good place. Let’s say we had gone for an 1880s skinny sleeve—that would have put all the interest on the skirts and the bottoms, and it would have felt totally different.
State-of-the-art training in scenic, lighting and costume design combined with practical production experience with working professionals make the USC School of Dramatic Arts a highly conducive environment for learning. Known as the first degree-granting institution in the U.S., the school has a conservatory program which partners with the Pittsburgh Public Theater, Quantum Theatre and City Theatre as well. This past year saw current students and alumni participate in a Phipps Conservatory and Botanical Garden fashion show inspired by Billy Porter’s looks and roles. "Thank you to the academy, thank you to my fellow nominees," Waddington began. "It's an amazing privilege to be in the same room as you all. You're the people who inspired me to be a costume designer in the first place." The color palette keys into the sexual overtones of the film.
Below, Waddington talks us through all of Bella’s key looks and phases, from the sculptural bustle cage inspired by a Moncler puffer, to the mac designed to resemble “a period condom”. Beyond that, Lanthimos offered conceptual freedom. “He just doesn’t need to have a whole back story,” she said. Bella’s statement sleeves are already having a moment.
In the movie (a Golden Lion winner at the Venice Film Festival and now an Oscar contender), Stone is a scientist’s creation who evolves from a childlike naïf to a sexually and politically liberated woman. When Bella's going to the medical school in Paris, I wanted her to be a bit more formed. So she has this proper suit, and I wanted her to be totally blended with men. I didn't want her to be at all conspicuous in that scene in the medical school.
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